Thursday, July 24, 2008

By For Now…

Earlier on the trip Bill and Mike traveled to Ibadan, Nigeria to be with a friend as his church celebrated their 10th anniversary. Our friend has called a few times since our trip just to keep in touch. This is a shining example of the Nigerian relational nature… it is important to keep connected.

My friend called again today; we talked about family and life and ministry and next year and at the end of the conversation, I said, “Good bye and God bless.” My friend responded, “By for now.”

The phrase tickled my ears, “By for now,” it was a new turn of phrase for me. I realized that’s how he ended all our phone conversations… maybe it is just his ways of concluding a call?

As I continued to ponder the words, “By for now” I thought, what a wonderfully relational phrase. Yes the conversation is ending but only for now, we will pick it up again (soon). We will stay connected… a pleasant thought and a delightful way to conclude a conversation with a friend.

Well, by for now…

African Stories 2…

The other weekend there was a robbery at a retreat compound maybe 45 minutes to an hour from Jos. I have not been there, but those I know who have say it is a wonderful place, a beautiful and restful place that missionaries often go to for a break from ministry.

Apparently one Thursday night a band of robbers cut through the fence and went to the house they thought was the manager’s house… it wasn’t. But they took the two females in the house as and went to the manager’s house (they knew that the safe would be in that place). The manager locked in for the night would never have opened his door, but the fact of hostages changed the equation. The robbers stole 300,000N (one missionary family has just cashed out of the bank to make a major purchase the next day… pure luck by the robbers) a couple of computers and some random jewelry. Eventually someone set off an alarm and the band of thieves took off… not harming anyone.

It is now that the story turns African… once the robbers were gone the local vigilantes quickly set into action tracking the robbers. These men are hunters and they can track anything and anyone… for more than 3 hours and 12km they tracked the thieves… often calling ahead to villages in the direction the robbers were running to alert more vigilantes. By the end 300 men were tracking the thieves. As the account goes as the vigilantes were closing in on the robbers the paths was strewn with shoes and clothes and everything they were carrying.

Eventually 10 of the robbers were found in a river with just there heads out of the water trying to hide form these professional trackers… Once captured they readily confess and gave up 7 others who had gone in another direction. The seven were found the next morning.

Why were the robbers so scared of the vigilantes…dropping everything as the hunters neared? I call it frontier justice… all of the robbers, including the 7 found later in the day were killed on the spot after confessing.

There is a bit more to the story. Three years ago 10 members of this group robbed the retreat center. When they were caught that time they were turned over to the police. Sadly, the police were bribed by the families and all the boys (college students) were set free with no punishment.

I guess when the government doesn’t protect you, you protect yourself…

Dependence and Community…

In the United States we strive for independence, we long and work to be self-dependent. Historians refer to the “fierce independence” of those who pushed our boundaries west toward California and we carry their genes. We sculpt our lives to minimize our dependence on others. For half-a decade we lived in a sub-division of homes outside of Cincinnati, a wonderful community. 120+ homes parceled in a cul-de-sac community, each of us on a quarter-to-1/3-acre parcel and each of us owning our own lawn mower and using it an hour or less a week to maintain our lawns at our convenience. And we would think it odd to do it differently.

Things are different in Nigeria. Because resources are few they have developed a culture of dependence. I was working at 3 am one morning because NEPA (electricity) had come on and I needed power to print some handouts for class, I was startled by a gentle know on the door. The night watchman stopped by to plug in his phone to charge it for the next day. People in Nigeria need one another. A resource one has is often graciously offered and borrowed or used. Another 3 am work session, a young man stopped in carrying a small black plastic bag. Following a pleasant greeting he quietly slipped across the room to the ironing table and set out pressing his clothes. Only when NEPA is on can one use an iron, heating elements (irons, water heaters, etc.) draw too much power for most small generators. The guest house had a steady stream of visitors who would plug in this or that whenever we had power. Life here is mutually dependent.

And mutual dependence breeds community. As I write the guest house manager is outside washing the car of one of the guests. The night guard, who stopped in to plug in and charge up his phone using the electricity in the Guest House grabbed a rag and helped… all the while these two friends chattered back and forth about life… and so community grows.

One day Mike and I were heading out of JETS to meet up with friends across town for ministry. As we neared the gate to hail a taxi a Honda with 3 people pulled up and asked if we needed a ride. The driver was John and interim seminary chaplain. He had seen us on a bike earlier in the week and was heading out, so he offered us the ride. We had a wonderful chat, I learned about John and his family and he mine as we drove to meet our friends. Mutual dependence grew to the first stage of a relationship. By the way, the two others in the car were students from to whom he had offered a ride shortly before he stopped for us.

I am not ready to trade in the independence and conveniences I enjoy living in the US, but our independence does come at a price.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

African Stories 1…

A friend from Liberia visited this afternoon with his family. We spoke about life in Nigeria which has been good these past 3 years as he studied at JETS. For 2 of the 3 years his family has been with him and that is such a joy and a blessing. My friend has 4 children: 2 daughters (18 and 12 years old) and 2 sons (15 and 2 months ). As he told me his story I realize why…

Things in Liberia are good now, but a while back there was 15 years of fighting. He told accounts of the family running for their lives. More than once the family was separated in flight for their lives… for a year they didn’t know where his son was. I can’t imagine… then they learned from friends that a family has seen his son running and gathered him into their clan. Another time again for a year or so, my friend didn’t know where his wife was. I’m not sure which parent had the children… I try to relate to these stories, honestly, I can’t. And in my mind I can’t decide which is worse, running for my life with my family or living a year not knowing the fate of a wife or son?

And my friend tells his story so matter-of-factly and praises God so earnestly for being together now.

A sidebar note to this story: I asked whether the children went to school here in Nigeria, which they do. Next I questioned their grade in school. All three (12, 15, and 18 years old) are all in primary school. Why? Because, he went on to explain, during the 15 years of fighting there was no schooling in Liberia. I never thought about that consequence of warring. Not only did many, many die during the fighting, but the better part of a whole generation lost the opportunity of education.

Oh the toll of war…!?!

Monday, July 21, 2008

My Favorite Voice…

Yesterday at the Internet Café, I noticed through my IM (instant messaging) that my family was online. I sent an IM and in moments we were messaging back and forth across the Atlantic. I rooted through my equipment, plugged in my laptop video and invited them to a video chat. Everything looked promising but immediately the video became a static picture and then… disconnected! Boo hoo  ! It was fun seeing their face even for that brief moment before the connection shut down. (I think there was not enough bandwidth for the video?)

Undaunted, I invited them to a “phone chat” and before I knew it I was chatting away across the Internet with my family in real time. The connection was great and it was so wonderful to hear my wife’s voice. I am not sure how long we chatted; 40 minutes maybe… words cannot express the lift in my heart from hearing my wife’s voice…

Technology can be such a good thing… thank you Lord for this few minutes with my wife and family…

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Bugs…

Yesterday I was making Mike’s lunch, a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, Mike looked at the bag and said, ”Hey there is a bug in there.” Sure enough and earwig was crawling around the bottom of the bag (but not for long!!!)

How did that bug get in there? The bag was closed with a twist-tie! I never saw the bag open other than when Mike or I were grabbing a piece of bread?... so how did the bug get in the bag? I don’t know… I just don’t know! I suppose I never will; but one thing I did know, I had to get the bug out of there… which I did immediately.

That little incident provides me with a snapshot of life. I don’t know how it happens but it is not uncommon for me to, all of a sudden, realize that a ‘bug’ has crawled into my life. Now this ‘bug’ may be:
a mean spirit toward a certain person or
anger or
jealousy or
self-centeredness or
distasteful language or
a myriad of other specie of ‘bugs.’

Sometimes I never do figure out how the ‘bug’ got in my life, but one thing I have to do every time is get the bug out as soon as I can.

The Apostle Paul writes, you must rid yourselves of all such things as these: anger, rage, malice, slander, and filthy language from your lips. And then he goes on to say how: let the word of Christ dwell in you richly... (Colossians 3:8, 16)

Surprising Questions...

We have had a few curveball questions asked of us during our time in Nigeria.

There is the “Do you know Bobby Smith” question. As if I am going to know this one particular person just because he or she is an American.

The other day Mike was playing with some kids and they began asking him if the knew the WWE. “Do you know John Cena, and then they rattled off a dozen or two of the big names from the WWE. We were shocked how popular WWE wrestling is?

“Are all Americans violent?” Most US movies they view are “action movies” so this youngster figured all Americans have guns and kill people! Interesting isn’t it what are movies say about us.

The topper was posed to us by a teen while eating in a Nigerian home. Out of the blue they asked, “Do you beat your children? Do you beat Michael?” I was shocked, stunned actually, and I didn’t know how to respond at first. After a deep breath and a chuckle I answered, “No. In America there are laws against this.” Pensively, the teen came back, “I wish it was like that here. My parents beat me…” lifting their arm to show us some marks.

Thank Offering…

Two Sundays our worship service had and interesting element… a Thanksgiving. Clearly planned in advance, a member of the church comes to the pulpit to express a thank you to the Lord for something God has recently done in their life. This morning the man thanked God for taking care of his wife and bringing her health, she had been sick and went to the hospital and today she was standing beside him better. He also thanked God for his daughter’s successful completion of nursing training school (3 years).

There are two particularly interesting aspects to this testimony/thanks giving. First people from the church family, I assume they are friends and those who maybe have prayed for them…, come and stand with the person giving the Thanksgiving. Today 30 people filled the platform as he thanked God.

The second is that after the verbal thanksgiving, the person gives a thank offering (a monetary gift to the church as a thank you to God. This comes from the thank offering in the Old Testament). After the family gives their thank offering the choir begins to sing a thank you to the Lord and the rest of the church are invited to come give a thank offering as well. This is not the main offering for the service, but a special offering. No one is obliged to give, but many do. I know many gave because you dance your way to the front as the choir sings and place your thank offering in the box!

Nigerians are truly a grateful and thankful people…

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Suffering…

So far I have listened to 21 Nigerian sermons (19 student sermons and 2 Sunday mornings) and I am amazed how many times suffering, violence and persecution have come up. My hunch is 40% of the sermons have mentioned it.

Whatever the number, it has surprised me how often and how relevant the issue of persecution is for my friends here in Nigeria and for their churches.

I have preached many of the texts they quoted and as a preacher I have struggled to connect Bible references to opposition and persecution to my US church families. But here in Nigeria those texts speak directly to actual life situations…

How rich and realistic God’s Word is… all of it; even the parts with which I struggle to relate.

Pace…

Life here in Nigeria moves at a different, more moderate, pace than anywhere I have lived in the US.

It is not that people here are less industrious or don’t work as hard or as long … that’s not it at all. That stereotype just isn’t valid. Just yesterday one of my students seemed exhausted in class. We chatted and he told me that he is taking 2 intensive (3-hour/day) classes plus is writing his thesis so that he can graduate after the next summer session. He was tired because he had been up till 4am studying! Every morning when I get up around 6-6:30, student families (men, women and even the children) are already up and working in the gardens they are allowed to plant here at JETS. We have seen children, which we suppose were as young as 3 working in the gardens and being chided by mom to work harder or better… no the slower pace is certainly not connected with work ethic.

I think prime factors are that they are more relational and have learned to wait.

First and foremost Nigerians are relational people. If you see a friend you take a few moments visit and share pleasantries and ask about the family, work, life. The idea of simply waving and saying “hi” as you keep walking by just is not in their culture. I must admit there is something very civil about this relational aspect, and much I can learn from it.

People also learn things take time and ‘taking time’ means people learn to wait... few people have personal cars. People walk many distances we would drive. And to go further distances then hail a taxi or a Shaba. (A Shaba is a motorcycle that mostly teens and young men drive around for hire. They are everywhere.) Hailing a taxi or Shaba takes time. People are used to taking time.

Shopping takes time. There are no big department or grocery stores (like Food Mart or Kohls) and no malls. There aren’t even gas-station-size convenience marts. Here in Jos shopping is done in open air markets where you buy your grains, vegetables, meats and fish. When I say market, think of scenes from the Middle East or Africa in National Geographic. Everything is purchased through bartering; you might get veggies at one stand, and walk half a block to get rice, and another half block to find meat or powered milk. To shop for the day (or couple of days meals) might take you to half dozen market stands. You buy everything like this… need to buy credits for your phone… find a market; want a shirt… browse a market and then barter when you find one you like. Shopping takes time; there is no zipping to the store for a gallon of milk…

The country’s infrastructure is not dependable. NEPA (electricity) is on and off. Gas is regulated but many stations don’t have gas due to rationed supply. And right now the drivers are striking so fuel cost is 15-40% higher than the government price. State schools often go on strike so your 4-year secondary school education may take 5 or 6 years…

Waiting is part of life… and waiting moderates pace.

Once my internal motor slowed down, I realized there is something commendable about the pace of life here…

Monday, July 14, 2008

Thanks For Our Generator….

Ahhh our generator… it is so nice to know that we will have lights in the evening, since NEPA still isn’t reliable. For some reason shops “outside” JETS have NEPA, but JETS doesn’t?!

Regarding the generator, Jonathan explained that we used 25Liter of fuel in 5 days (70N/ltr). Jonathan estimates that we use the generator about 3-hours a day, which means that we use 5 liter/ 3 hours.

Mike loves his phone, it has a calculator and a money conversion tool so he calculated the generator costs. It costs about $1/hour to run. This doesn’t sound like much but running the numbers Michael figures at 3-hours a day it costs:
$3/day, or
$21/week, or
$1092/year, which equals 127,764N/yr!
And this is equivalent to 3.65 years of college tuition!

We are ever-more grateful and thankful for the generator.

Pollution…

We grabbed a taxi at the JETS gate and went to the market clothes shopping Friday afternoon. Following a successful venture for both Mike and Bill, we decided to head home. We could see storm clouds forming and we didn’t want to get caught in a down pour.

We went of a main intersection to hail a taxi… it took a while. And while standing there at this busy intersection I really noticed it … my eyes began to redden from the acrid air… pollution!

Virtually every vehicle (car, truck or Shaba – motorcycle) was belching grey, sometimes black, smoke from its tail pipe. Not a pretty sight or smell!

Taxis…

We asked our friend Jonathan to take us to town and show us the way of the taxi. He obliged. I asked him to show us the real taxi, not the White-dignitary taxi. Last weekend a Nigerian JETS colleague took us to town to by our phones and the only way to get there is by taxi. The price seems a bit steep, 250N each way. I asked Jonathan about it later and he explained that our host paid the taxi extra to not pick up any one else.

Normally taxis pick up as many as they can fit in the car, which normally means two passengers in the front passenger seat and 4 squeezed in the back. Please understand these cars are sub-compacts by US standards!

Well back to our story, today we rode in normal taxis. Heading to town we were fortunate, there was only one passenger in the front and the 3 of us in the rear. No problem… luxury at 40N (34 cents) each!

On the way home we filled the taxi… Mike and I nestled into the front bucket seat; Jonathan squeezed into the back with 3 others. Whenever the driver shifted into first I felt it!

And please don’t think of the official taxis of NYC or any other major town. Instead picture a jalopy, dented and bruised! Ours had 3 major cracks in the windshield… and look like it survived last weekend’s demolition derby!

One other curious fact about taxis… say you are driving to work and you want a little extra cash, when someone sticks out their hand looking for a taxi, just pull over and have him climb in! Any car can be a taxi.

Friday, July 11, 2008

Laundry…

All of our kids know how to do their own laundry. It is really no a big deal, sort the clothes put them in the washer, add soap (and softener if you like) push the correct cycle for the type of clothing and let the washer to the work! Next the dryer dries … fold and you are done.

I am prompted to paint this picture because behind me Jonathan is washing our clothes.

Using multiple buckets… first you soak the clothes in soapy water, Jonathan started the process before breakfast. Then you squeeze, ring, rub, squeeze, ring and rub each article of clothing. After you have done this a few times with each piece of clothing, you place it in another bucket swish it around and soak it with clean water and ‘squeeze, ring, rub’ to “rinse.” On the process goes, one piece of clothing after another until the pile is gone. Hands grow raw from the soap and abrasive nature of the fabric.

The pile produced by two people in a week is significant!

Next the clothes are hung on the line to dry… pray for a sunny day and no rain showers! Things dry quickly here.

Then comes folding and if there is NEPA ironing all the cloths. Laundry is a multi-hour process. It is easy to understand why people years ago had laundry day!

I have a new appreciation for all the machines that help us do our work…

Light…

Oh how I take light for granted. Going into the basement, flip a switch and presto instant light. Have to find something is the back of your closet all I have to do is flip the switch. Evening comes and outside lights go on around my property automatically. Want to take the dog for a walk at night, many if not most streets have street lights. And where there are not streetlights the light from the neighbor’s houses and yards provide plenty of light to walk. I drive home late at night, push the garage door opener for my car and, presto, a light goes on so I can navigate my way to the door.

Light is everywhere and is available whenever I need it at the flip of a switch.

Not so here in Jos. With NEPA spotty at best, once darkness falls you either have a generator for light and electricity or you use battery-operated lights (batteries are not readily available), candles, the guesthouse even has two old fashioned oil lamps… the other option is you can go to bed (at 7:30) because it is DARK.

I notice the absence of light most walking… with no street lights and only a handful of buildings using a generator, once the sun goes down it is DARK. You learn to keep a flashlight (called a torch by folks here) with you. Roads are chock full of ruts and hazards and puddles from the daily rains. If you don’t use a “torch” you will meet the ground or splash in a puddle guaranteed!

Light is a necessity if you want to make your way or do anything after dark.

Psalms 119:105: Your word is a lamp to my feet and a light for my path, paints a vivid picture of the necessity of God’s Word.

One side benefit from the lack of ambient light after dark is the beauty of the night sky... thousands, tens-of- thousands of stars! Truly, The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his hands. (Psalm 19:1).

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Hot Water…

In a land where NEPA is scarce, hot water is a treat and a delight, no matter how you get it.

Most mornings here hot water for showering comes from one of two sources. If NEPA has been on then the mini-hot water heaters in each bathroom make and store hot water. They might be 10-gallons tanks which is plenty of water for a couple of quick showers. (You might recall that the hot water line is clogged so NEPA or not we have no hot water to our shower. Also when we use the generator you can’t run the water heaters… not enough juice.)

The alternative is to heat water on the stove; a quarter bucket of almost-boiling water is plenty. Fill the remainder of the bucket with clod water and you have delightful shower temp… Not too hot and not to cold. Sometimes one even has to pour part of the water in a second bucket and add more cold water to get the temp to a pleasant bathing temp. And in this case you have a bucket-and-a half shower… quite a luxury.

Each morning our host fills thermoses with hot water for tea, if any is left at night… ahhh warm water for a quick shower or to wash hands and face before bed… a second luxury.

Our guesthouse mates will be away today and tomorrow so Mike’s noon shower will be by using their thermos of hot water at noon… a crime punishable by death… but since they will not be back to use it, the courts will let it go this time!

Hot water… is a gift from the Lord and not readily accessible so you learn to use it with care!

Highway Driving: “yee haa” …

Driving is shall I say, ‘an experience’ here in Nigeria. In the US rules of the road are just that… rules of the road. Here the major rule seems to be “if you can do it without dying do it!”

Highway driving is one challenge. One road was a two-car-wide roadway in each direction with numerous pot-holes (some of which can swallow a car!). There are no lane markers, but that wouldn’t matter anyway. A steady stream of vehicles fill the road but it isn’t traffic. You are tooling along at 120-140 kph (kilometers/hr, 75-87 mph) and you see a truck ahead in the left lane traveling maybe 50 kph. You re on its back in no time, swerve to the right but there is a slow moving car in that lane that the truck is ‘passing’… what do you do?
1. slow and wait for truck to pass?
2. veer off the road and around the truck or car?
3. get on the tail of the truck and cut ahead of the car ASAP
Answer: #3, hang close to the truck and then as soon as there is an opening sweep in front of the car all the while honking your horn. An alternate approach might be to honk horn and get both cars to move a bit to the outside of the roadway and create a “3rd” lane to pass both.

It starts to rain and then pour your windshield wipers are working but they are old so your windshield is streaky at best, how do you respond? I’ll just tell you the answer… you keep going slipping from left to right lane as needed to pass vehicles. There is no such rule as slow moving vehicles keep right. Slow moving vehicles stay I whatever lane they like forcing traffic to continually slide from lane to lane to pass them.

Traffic… now this is a particular challenge. What seems to be the rule is make as many lanes as the roadway and sides of the road allow… In one particular stretch of supposedly 3 lane road, we were in snarling traffic exacerbated by the fact that there were at least 6 and quite possibly 7 self-created lanes with cars often less than an inch apart!

Driving on a divided highway… ooops I missed my turn, what do you do?
1. stop, put car in reverse and back up in the highway until you can make your turn?
2. drive across the grass medium and get on the highway in the other direction, drive past the turn you missed and then drive across the medium again and make the turn you missed?
3. travel on until the next exit get back on the highway in the opposite direction and get of at your turn?
Answer: #1… just stop and back up whether it is 100 feet or 2000 feet, people will go around you.

Lastly, remember when passing always blow your horn… after all you might be on the right or the left and the vehicle may not have any rear or side view mirrors to see you….

I hope you enjoyed your first lesson of driving in Nigeria. Yee Haa!

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Thanking God…

By all accounts Monday was a tough day… we drove four hours from Ibadan to Lagos only to miss our flight by 20 minutes. The traffic was unlike anything I have ever seen, and downpours flooded roads making the driving even more stressful. After saying that it was not safe to stay in Lagos overnight we turned around and drove 4 hours back… traffic in that direction was terrible too, due largely to the havoc the downpours wreaked on the roads… quite a day.

As we pulled into the driveway back in Ibadan our host and driver paused to pray… “Thank you Lord God for watching over us, for keeping us safe on the highway, for protecting our car from problems and us from robbers. Lord, thank you for our home and for bringing us home safely.”

Both Mike and I were struck by his prayer. His prayer had an amazing settling effect both of us independently. Some how it gave the day a new perspective and helped us see that though the day did not go has we hoped or planned, God had been there watching over us. So upon our return to Jos I prayed:
Thank you God for watching over our trip from Jos through Lagos to Ibadan and back again, for keeping us safe, for not letting us fall into the hands of robbers or have car troubles during the many hours of travel. Thank you Lord, for the gracious hospitality of our host family, for the new friends we made and for the delight of celebrating Your goodness on the 10th anniversary of Answer Bible Church. Thank you Lord!

PS: Upon returning I heard a story from a JETS colleague about a couple flying through Lagos. They too were meeting people they had never met before just as we were. All people can surmise is that their email correspondence had been intercepted because they were abducted at Lagos Airport by people impersonating the contacts they were to meet at the airport. Fortunately the couple was not harmed, but they taken from the airport by the imposters and robbed of everything they had.
God’s protection is real and necessary here…

Friday, July 4, 2008

Thank God…

I was retrieving one of Mike’s errant baseball throws which landed near a woman pulling some produce from her garden. “Hello,” I said, smiling at her.

She replied, “How are you, sir.” For a moment we chatted. Then her bag was full, so she stood up and headed home. I asked, “Are those greens for dinner?”

“Yes,” she answered politely.

“What a nice garden you have,” I commented encouragingly.

“Thank God,” replied.

It stuck me… I probably would have replied “Thank you.” But not this lady, she said, “Thank God.”

You know it is only one word different in reply, but quite significant in meaning. My response would have accepted credit for my hard work and my labor in the garden and my food. Hers recognized that all things are a gift from God. And my sense is that is exactly how she meant it! She wanted God is to be praised for the food she was carrying to her family.

Lord, knead my heart until it beats with thanks to You…

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Simple Treasurers…

Last night our guesthouse got a generator which meant that I could hook up my printer. The guesthouse manager, Jonathan, danced around me and fidgeted as I connected my computer to the printer and downloaded the software. Then I realize… two days ago I had taken pictures of Jonathan and his fiancé Michel. He was excited because I promised to print out pictures for he and Michel.

Watching Jonathan was like watching a kid in a candy store! Once everything was ready we went to the pictures and printed out two of each. Jonathan hovered by the printer grabbing each picture as it emerged and holding it carefully he examined it as if it were a priceless document or artifact. The joy and excitement that filled him was palpable!

As the first one came out Jonathan fingered it and looked especially surprised. “Thick,” he said, referring to the paper. Earlier that day he showed me a picture a friend had recently given him of himself – clearly a treasure. It was printed on regular copy paper. Jonathan seemed so surprised that my pictures were printed on “picture paper.”

As he looked at one particular close-up, he smiled and said, “This will be the picture on our wedding invitation.”

Things I take for granted are treasurers for my friends here in Nigeria…

A Thankful Heart…

Three of my students this year were in last years Romans class. One of the three is Micah. In class yesterday we were chatting and he said, “I just phoned my wife and we were talking about the suit you gave me last year. We are so thankful.”

He continued, “If I had known you were the teacher I would have brought it with me from my village to show you and to wear it for my picture. It is my one dress outfit. I wear it for worship. Thank you. Thank you so much.”

It was clear from his face and the brightness of his eyes and the smile as he spoke that his thank you came straight from the heart… His thank you blessed my heart and all I was, was the deliverer.

Last year in preparing for our trip a friend dropped off a few suits her son wanted to donate to any Nigerians in need. I took them to the seminary and my students gobbled them up (in one case one person took the pants and another student the jacket of the same suit!). Micah got a full suit almost the perfect size for him… it is that suit that Micah was soooo thankful for!

The Nigerian friends I have made are truly thankful people…

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

NEPA (Nigerian Electric Power Authority)… ugh!!!

NEPA, Electric power, has been virtually non existent so far on our trip now 6 days in. It has been much worse than either of our previous trips and everyone is baffled. One story is that there is major road construction around JETS and the problem is moving the power lines… not likely since he power outages are city wide. Another theory is the NEPA is selling its power to the country of Niger at a higher rate than it can get in Nigeria.

Whatever the case, there is little to no power.

As you sit in your homes on your computer reading this… be thankful for the electricity you have … it is not the same around the world.

Nice, Kind, Helpful People…

The Nigerians are so very kind. Today Mike (it is his birthday… Happy Birthday Mike!!!) was invited to the Malloy’s with the Sampsons for an afternoon of fun and a make-shift birthday party, including a cake!!! The plan was for me to get to the Malloy’s after class. Now how was I going to get there??? Hmmm…

I checked with the Seminary, but all the drivers were out. So I went to plan B, I asked my class if anyone was living off campus and might be driving home after class… no one. They all are staying here at JETS. Then one student, Isaku, said I have a car I can drive you. And he did. He wasn’t going out but he took time from his studies and family to drive me across town. Nice…

Now came a second challenge, how to get to Malloy’s. I think I remember how to get their but I cannot say for certain. I decided to call Ebere to see if he remembered. We met and although he was supposed to be going to a meeting, he said he would ride along, since Isaku is coming right back, and make sure I get there… Nice.

We got there with no wrong turns, it took about 15 minutes … thanks Isaku and Ebere for being nice and getting me to Mike and my friends. You certainly didn’t have to do it. Ebere I hope you weren’t too late for your meeting.

The Nigerians I have met are definitely nice, kind and helpful…

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Buckets…

Who would think that buckets can be so helpful? Let’s see… they are good for keeping lists (sorry, I watched Bucket List on the flight to Abuja… good movie by the way). And during my stay in Nigeria they are good for showers!

Our room has virtually no water pressure so even if we have NEPA (electricity) to heat the hot water, we only get a trickle… I mean trickle! I can spit more water than the amount of hot water that comes from our shower! (By the way, I hear other showers flowing with plenty of water… I think it is just our room. Go figure. I always get on the “short line” which takes forever to check out, too.)

The solution… bucket shower!!! Maybe two gallons of water but it is delightful. When we don’t have NEPA (which is basically all the time, yesterday we had NEPA maybe a grand total of 15 minutes), we heat water on the stove and then I use a smaller bowl to pour the water over my head and body… this beats the cold shower on Sunday anyway.

Truly the shower was delightful, warm and I am clean from head to toe; I even have water left over after I am finished! I liked it so much I took a second shower after a hot afternoon of teaching.

Buckets… they are amazingly useful.

One suggestion don’t keep your list in the same bucket you use to shower!

Monday, June 30, 2008

Asking…

Jesus said in Matthew 7:7 "Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you.”

In the gospel Jesus was encouraging his hearers to ask Father God for what they need… a lesson that can be difficult for us self-dependent Americans.

It seems that the Nigerians have taken Jesus at his word and then some, not only praying fervently to God for their needs, which for many are the very basic needs of life; food, health basic provision. Additionally they have learned the art of asking White Westerners, at least, for whatever they need. And I confess this take a bit of getting used to…

As I have gotten to know Jonathan, the guesthouse manager, I learned that he needs approximately 37,000Niara [about $310] for school tuition this coming year. And my heart breaks as I hear his story and I think maybe I could do that. We sponsor World Vision and SIM kids at $30/month; maybe I could take on one JETS student? I need to pray more about this. Now Jonathan has not asked me for this, it is my thought alone… a prompting from God or Western guilt is still to be determined.

But ask for other things Jonathan does simply, straightforwardly and unashamedly. It is as if he and other Nigerians I have met live by the credo “ask and it may be given to you…”

Jonathan told us about phones and how to get them. He mentioned that his phone was bought by a guesthouse guest who left it to Jonathan when he returned home. The phone is completely wrapped “scotch tape; I don’t know if the tape is to protect it or to hold it together? When we bought our phones, Jonathan said mater-of-factly, “Mike maybe when you go home you can leave the phone for me.”

Again in conversation I was asking Jonathan how he does his class writing, “When I have to type something I go to the business office and use their computers.” For a fee a student can use the computer and print pages (20N/page). I asked Jonathan how much a computer costs in Nigeria. Same price as in the US $600-800, which is equivalent to two-three years tuition! Later that day, Jonathan simply remarked, “Maybe you have an old laptop at home that you could give me…” Ask and it may be given to you.

I confess that the asking bugs me, I find myself less likely to help, not more. And it is by no means only Jonathan, many Nigerians do it. The boys at the City Ministries homes often ask for things.

Being asked is something I have to get used to… and by God’s grace to learn when God might be prompting me to give…

Saturday, June 28, 2008

University…

I’ve decided (my kids don’t know it yet!?!) that I think we will send our children to University in Nigeria. The price is right!

I mentioned Jonathan in my last blog. He is a student here at JETS, yearly tuition & room cost is 46,000 Naira [$1 = 117 N]. Do the math… that’s about $393/year tuition. Now I realize that there are additional food and book expenses and a little thing called travel to and from Africa. But honestly it won’t come close to my daughter and son’s college costs which are about 5-million Naira each per year.

Like I said, university in Jos is sounding better and better every minute… Mike I hope you like Africa, either that or you better get that baseball scholarship!!!

Seniority…

One interesting custom we are observing and learning is seniority. The senior has the privilege. Here’s a story of how it works.

The guesthouse manager is Jonathan, a very nice young man. Jonathan just completed his first year at University and managing the guesthouse is a job that helps him pay for his schooling. Jonathan waits on us hand and foot, he prepares our meals, cleans up the table after us, he will do our laundry, etc. Ebere is the assistant to the Dean and the person overseeing our visit. He is Jonathan’s superior.

Last evening we chatted with Jonathan about phones, we need phones to stay in touch and to communicate with others. Jonathan explained we could buy phones fairly inexpensively in town and he would take us on Saturday. Later Ebere stopped by to check on us and phones came up and Ebere said he would take us to get phones tomorrow, Saturday. Hmmm… a potential dilemma.

Saturday came and I talked with Jonathan about phones and he offered to take us to town. As we walked across campus to the gate, Mike realized that we better check with Ebere so we don’t end up with 4 phones.

As we were tracking Ebere down, Jonathan said, “Mr. Bill (that’s what he calls me), if Ebere wants to take you to town for phones go with him and please don’t tell him I was going to take you. I don’t want to upset him, he wants to serve you and I don’t want to interfere.” I got the picture and when we met Ebere I carefully danced around the phone issue and Ebere made it clear he wanted to take me so…. Jonathan was politely excused and Ebere took us shopping!

We also observed the seniority concept between women and men…

Seniority… is an important concept here in Nigeria.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Ahhh… Nigeria!

Our first night sleep was peaceful a fan stirred the room air… it was nice. We arranged to meet at 8 am to drive to Jos. At 7:15 (fortunately I was up) a knock rattled the door. It was Danjumma. “Sorry sir, I have to get the car repaired. Hopefully we can leave by 9 or 10.” … Ahhh Nigeria!

I reset my alarm another hour-and-a half sleep! I’m tired. Again the alarm I climbed out of bed unplugged my laptop which was now fully charged and plugged in my phone… within seconds the fan stopped! NEPA (electricity) was off… Ahhh Nigeria.

A sign on the sink reads, “This water is not treated” … Ahhh Nigeria. (Fortunately I planned ahead and brought 4 quarts from Germany… we were good to go! I rushed my teeth and went to take my shower. Even through the power is out the water has heated in the morning so it was still hot and it felt good to be clean. Exiting the shower I realized, No Towels… Ahhh Nigeria!

It is now 10:30 and no sign of Danjumma yet… Ahhh Nigeria. Power is back on, the fan is funning and I’m going to take a nap… Ahhh Nigeria!

Danjumma came just as I lay down, so off to Jos we drove. Four hours later we arrived at JETS, connected with friends from last year and were shown to our room in the Guest House, the power was out… Ahhh Nigeria.

During a tour of the campus we learned that the wireless network is down… Ahhh Nigeria!
We unpacked eat a snack and headed to the campus Internet Café, which is working well, to post our blog and send some email.

We have met many people already and everyone here is so kind and friendly... Ahhh Nigeria!

A Friendly Face…

Thursday June 25. Much of the time we take for granted a smile and a friendly face… after what seemed like an eternity in a coach seats and “cat-napping” on airport benches we landed in Abuja. Having been there before it didn’t have that strange what do I do feel. We cued up in the immigration line behind a tall Caucasian (being the minority is worth another blog someday). He was out of his element; smiles were exchanged and soon we struck up a guarded conversation.
Where are you from… (both from the US). I think I detected a bit more peace entering his countenance.
What brings you to Nigeria, “visiting friends” I responded guardedly. And before long we were connecting. Joe, it seems was headed to Jos to work with SIM. We shared names we knew of people we knew and it turns out he was going to work with City Ministries and the Fretheims… small world!

We waited in line with Joe and walked with him through immigration and getting our luggage. Funny I felt like the veteran helping the rookie and maybe that was so. At one point Joe said, it feels good standing with other Christians, I can leave my bag and know it will be safe!

A smile, a friendly face and then some connections… ahh peace comes in interesting packages.

After getting all of our luggage we parted with Joe as he looked for his contact and we ours. Out in the lobby, we scanned the faces… who would meet us. Soon a voice called our name (a “white” father and son were pretty easy to spot). It was Danjumma, my JETS driver from last summer… a smiling face and a connection… peace arrived again, this time in my heart!

PS. We spent the night at the ECWA Guest House and who did we meet in the lobby… Joe! I offered to have him send a text home to his family saying he had arrived safely, which he did. I’m guessing that peace filled his family’s heart when they received his text. I know it filled Susan’s when she received mine!

Monday, June 23, 2008

Packing List...

What you pack says a lot about the trip you are taking... here are a few not-normally-packed items set to go in our suitcases for our Nigeria Adventure.

Malarone pills: malaria is a very real threat in Africa. Despite the best efforts of Bill Gates and his foundation to eradicate malaria, malaria continues to thrive. Malarone is our best defense. Say a prayer for the millions in Africa with no such defense!

Water purifier: I am uncertain about our living situation, talking with our hosts they hope to provide filtered water, but since we have a portable filter with our camping supplies we thought it best to bring it. This way we know we can have safe drinking water! (We tossed in some iodine pills just in case!)

Printer, paper, and ink: Basically I have to bring my office with me. If I want to be able to print something, I need a printer. I have learned that what we take for granted in our offices or homes for that matter is anything but a sure bet; so I bring what I need. Two suitcases fill up fast when you take a printer and supplies!

Stapler and staples: I listed this separately on purpose. Last year I spent 30-minutes finding someone with a stapler I could borrow. For $5.83 at Staples I bought one which came with 1250 staples and a staple remover! I will leave with one of the secretaries when I come home. I suspect it will be an appreciated treasure.

Two jars of peanut butter: yes this is heavy and we only have 2 50lb bags each but peanut butter is a good source of protein and it keeps well and can be spread on virtually anything or even eaten plain.

Umbrellas and easy dry pants and sandals: July is the rainy season. Last year we took rain jackets but honestly all they did was direct the torrential rains down to my pants! Umbrellas work better. Hiking pants which look relatively nice yet dry quickly -- forget jeans they may never dry. And shoes, they better dry well also. Last year we were caught in a couple of downpours that resulted in the roads we were walking flooding... I mean I was in water over my ankles! Sandals worked great, sneakers did not... they were wet for days.

Flashlights: with electricity iffy, it is best to have a flashlight handy if you need to get somewhere after dark, and somewhere could be your bathroom!

A Suit and Tie: I have the opportunity to preach one weekend at at a church's 10th anniversary. I am excited. And the dress is formal. The church is hoping to have a traditional Nigerian outfit made for me, in which case I will wear that. But just in case I asked about their dress code; my pastor friend said people would expect a western suit and tie... so in goes my grey suit.

Well these are just a few of the items we are taking with us to Nigeria... I wish you could come along too.

Monday, June 16, 2008

Providence, Prayers and Favor... the Visa Process

Getting visas can be daunting, especially when you only have less than 2-weeks until you leave. Here is our story.

The Nigerian visa process is 2 stages: Internet and embassy. Step one requires an Internet application and payment. I have the best administrator, Lisa, who plowed through the Internet application for me and Mike. Completing the application is one thing, getting the confirmed reply is another. Mine was posted about 11:00 and within 20 minutes my email confirmation arrived... yeah. Mike's was posted about 12:05 and we waited and we waited... no reply. It'll come I kept telling myself.

Meanwhile a Nigerian friend Gloria, who graciously volunteered to travel with me to the NYC Embassy for visa application part 2, called and we tentatively planned our NYC trip for Monday at 7:00 am and would check in with each other Sunday afternoon.

All afternoon we waited for the email confirmation... nothing. Lisa even called the credit card company, yes two charges were made to the Google posting agency (no one wants credit card info going to Nigeria), but still not confirmation email. The credit card agent said posts can take up to 72 hours!

Texts throughout the weekend from Lisa let me know the confirmation still had not arrived. Sunday evening my friend Gloria and I decided to go Monday hoping the confirmation would come, plus we had a written confirmation from the credit card company saying the two posts had been placed.

Monday came, still no confirmation. Susan drove me to the rendezvous point and we waited, no Gloria. 20 minutes later she called I95 was a parking lot so we both returned home to try again the next day. In my email inbox when I got home was the confirmation, tomorrow would be a much better day.

Tuesday morning came and although traffic was bad it was better than Monday's. Gloria arrived a bit late but all in all we were heading down I95 the the Nigerian Consulate by 8:00 am. We arrived with little frustration at 9:30. Before walking to the Consulate we prayed and asked for God favor and blessing. The visa/passport office opens at 10, so they let us in the waiting room, we were #3. the room continued to fill up. By the time the Consulate worker arrived (3 minutes before 10) there were some 20 people in the waiting room.

After explaining that their passport machine was broken and passports had to be issued through the Washington Office until it was fixed, there was a audible grown in the office and a number of disgruntled Nigerians left. By 10:05 I was at her desk. she was incredibly gracious and kind. Everything looked in order, except I needed money orders for my final $40 payment (they don't take cash(?), which was not explained anywhere in the visa information process), plus if I preferred they would Express Mail my passports to me, otherwise I would have to return Thursday afternoon to pick them up. A quick walk to a Post Office 2 blocks away seemed in order.

By now it was close to 100 degrees outside and 90+ humidity, so dripping with perspiration we arrived at the Post Office and purchased the necessary money orders and Express Mail envelope. Before we knew it we were back at the Consulate and if all went well we could be at a corner diner for some breakfast by 11 am.

Unfortunately, the Post Office sold me the wrong Express Mail envelope (??), so I had to make a return trip. Gloria remained in the waiting room rather than brave the heat again. Not that the waiting room was much better, with no noticeable A/C or fans it was a bit stuffy. But Gloria made the best of it befriending the Consulate employee and exchanging cell numbers.

I dutifully returned with the correct envelope and was called immediately up front, handed it in and after courtesy thank you Gloria and I headed out for breakfast quickly becoming lunch at 11:45.

As we were crossing the street, we heard something. turning around we saw the woman Consulate worker running after us! My heart sunk... let me tell you. Escorting us through security she explained that my profession as a clergy and the letter of invitation from a seminary professor would surely kick off some red flags and I would likely not get a visa. She thrust a new application in my hand and said fill it out, meanwhile she instructed Gloria, my Nigerian friend, to write me a new letter of invitation. Heart beating, quiet prayers flying I filled out a new application. Gloria scribbled a letter. When it came to occupation, she suggest "counselor."

Now it was Gloria's time to disappear, searching the NYC streets for a photocopy machine. The consulate does not have one for public use. (The process was all to reminiscent of my days in Nigeria, machines that don't work, few services, no A/C and gracious, friendly people.)

Almost a half hour later Gloria returned dripping wet with a photocopy in hand. Smiles handshakes and profuse thank yous and we left again... my watch read 12:10. I turned to Gloria and said, "Hey Gloria, they are supposed to serve authentic Nigerian lunches beginning at noon, can I buy you a lunch?" "Yes," she smiled. Unfortunately the guard standing near us said, "Sorry, lunch isn't set up yet, maybe by 12:30?"

Gloria and I glanced at each other and said politely to him, maybe another day. We bought cold drinks at a street vendor and drove to Riverside for lunch.

I prayed a lot the next couple of days, then Friday the Express Mail envelope arrived with our passports and visas ... now for certain the trip is on.

I've thought quite a bit about the visa process... God is good and when He calls He provides:
  • God answers prayers...
  • Had we gone to the Consulate Monday, we would have had a different Clerk. The woman who was so helped for us was filling in for the regular person who was out on Tuesday... hmmm, that delayed email confirmation was part of God's plan all along...
  • Gloria's offer to ride along with me, turned out to be a God-gift. Had she not been with me I may not have my visa...

After this beginning... I wonder what God has in store for us throughout the trip. Keep reading and find out.